Creating Fragrances: The History and Science of Perfumery

Submitted by Dicky Pearce


January 7th, 2023


"an ancient Roman perfume recipe is the "Floral Fragrance of Venus," which was created by the Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder. This perfume was made from a blend of rose, iris, and violets, and was believed to have aphrodisiac properties"

Perfumery, the art of creating and applying fragrances, has a long and fascinating history that dates back thousands of years. Some of the first civilizations to embrace the art of perfumery were the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, who used fragrant oils and resins to create luxurious perfumes. Today, we continue to be inspired by the innovative perfumes of the past, using the same principles and techniques to create modern fragrances that captivate the senses.

In ancient Egypt, perfumery was an important part of daily life, and fragrant oils and resins were used for both personal and religious purposes. The ancient Egyptians used a wide variety of natural ingredients to create their perfumes, including frankincense, myrrh, and cedarwood. These fragrant materials were extracted from plants and trees and were used to create both solid and liquid perfumes. In addition to being used for personal grooming, perfumes were also used in religious ceremonies and were believed to have medicinal properties.


The ancient Greeks and Romans also embraced perfumery, using scented oils and incense in their daily lives and in their public baths. The ancient Greeks used a wide variety of plants and flowers to create their perfumes, including roses, jasmine, and lilies. The Romans, on the other hand, favored more exotic ingredients, such as myrrh and frankincense, which were imported from the Middle East.

Perfumes were not only used for personal grooming and to mask odors, but they also played an important role in religious ceremonies and rituals. In ancient Rome, for example, perfumes were used to honor the gods and were often burned as incense during religious ceremonies. An example of an ancient Roman perfume recipe is the "Floral Fragrance of Venus," which was created by the Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder. This perfume was made from a blend of rose, iris, and violets, and was believed to have aphrodisiac properties.


The science behind perfumery involves the use of essential oils and aroma compounds to create fragrances. Essential oils are concentrated plant extracts that contain the natural aroma of the plant. They are obtained through a process called distillation, which involves boiling the plant material to produce steam, which is then cooled and condensed to produce the essential oil. There are several different types of distillation, including steam distillation, water distillation, and solvent extraction.

Aroma compounds, on the other hand, are synthetic molecules that are created in a lab and are used to create specific scents. They are often used to recreate the scent of natural materials, such as flowers and fruits, or to create entirely new scents that do not exist in nature. Perfumers use a combination of essential oils and aroma compounds to create a wide range of fragrances, including floral, fruity, spicy, and woody scents. They may also use other ingredients, such as solvents and fixatives, to help the fragrance last longer on the skin.


The human olfactory system is responsible for detecting and interpreting smells. The olfactory system includes the nose and the olfactory bulb, which is a part of the brain that is responsible for processing smells. When we smell something, the molecules of the aroma are detected by receptors in the nose, which send signals to the olfactory bulb. The olfactory bulb then processes these signals and sends them to other parts of the brain, which interpret the smell and create a perception of it.

Organic chirality refers to the fact that many organic molecules exist in two different forms that are mirror images of each other. These two forms, called enantiomers, are chemically identical, but they have different physical properties and can often have different smells. This is important in perfumery because the enantiomers of some aroma compounds can have very different smells, and perfumers must carefully select the specific enantiomer that they want to use in their fragrances.


There are several major perfume houses that create the fragrances for many designer brands. Some of the most well-known perfume houses include Firmenich, Givaudan, and International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). These companies work with a team of perfumers and use a combination of essential oils and aroma compounds to create a wide range of fragrances for various clients. One of the few exceptions to this is Coco Chanel, who was known for creating her own fragrances in-house. Coco Chanel revolutionized the perfume industry in the 1920s with the launch of her iconic perfume, Chanel No. 5. This fragrance, which is still popular today, was created by the French perfumer Ernest Beaux and consists of a blend of rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang essential oils. Coco Chanel was also known for her other perfumes, including Chanel No. 22 and Chanel No. 19, both of which were created in-house at her fashion house.


In addition to these major perfume houses and designers, there are also many independent perfumers who create their own fragrances and sell them directly to consumers. These perfumers may work with a smaller selection of ingredients and may use more natural or organic materials in their fragrances. If you're interested in starting a hobby in perfumery and becoming an amateur perfumer, there are many resources available to help you get started, such as books on perfumery and online courses. With a little bit of practice and experimentation, you'll be well on your way to creating your own unique fragrances.


When getting started in perfumery, it can be tempting to want to buy a wide selection of essential oils and aroma compounds right away. However, it's important to start slow and not get overwhelmed by buying too many different ingredients at once. It can be helpful to begin with a small selection of essential oils that represent a range of scents, such as a floral scent (like lavender or rose), a spicy scent (like clove or cinnamon), and a woody scent (like cedarwood or sandalwood). This will give you a good foundation to work with and will allow you to experiment with different combinations and see what you like.


In addition to essential oils, you'll also need to invest in some basic perfumery equipment, such as beakers, measuring cups, and a small scale for weighing ingredients. It's also a good idea to have a carrier oil on hand, such as jojoba oil or almond oil, which can be used to dilute the fragrances. There are a variety of retailers where you can purchase these supplies, including online stores that specialize in perfumery supplies and craft stores that carry a selection of essential oils. It's a good idea to shop around and compare prices to find the best deals on the supplies you need.


To start creating your own fragrances, you'll need to follow a basic perfumery formula, which consists of top notes, middle notes, and base notes. The top notes are the initial scents that are detected when you first apply the fragrance, and they tend to be light and volatile. These scents are typically derived from essential oils and are designed to evaporate quickly, leaving behind the middle, or heart, notes. The middle notes are the scents that become apparent after the top notes evaporate, and they tend to be softer and more rounded. These scents are often derived from essential oils and aroma compounds and are designed to last longer on the skin. The base notes are the scents that are detected after the fragrance has dried down, and they tend to be the most lasting and enduring. These scents are typically derived from essential oils and are designed to anchor the fragrance and give it depth and complexity.


There are many resources available to help you get started in perfumery, including books, online courses, and workshops. Some recommended reading materials include "Perfume: The Art and Craft of Fragrance" by Stephen V. Dowthwaite and "The Complete Guide to Natural Perfumery" by Deborah Dolen. These books provide an in-depth look at the history of perfumery, the different types of essential oils and aroma compounds that are available, and how to create your own fragrances using a basic perfumery formula.


With a little bit of practice and experimentation, you'll be well on your way to becoming an amateur perfumer. Creating your own fragrances can be a rewarding and satisfying hobby, and it's a great way to express your creativity and explore your senses.